Latest from Japan Forward
Japan Forward
6 hours ago
- Japan Forward
Why to Try a Slow Train Ride Through Nagano
Stop this trainI want to get off and go home againI can't take the speed it's moving inI know I can't But honestly, won't someone stop this train ? ー John Mayer Departing Sakudaira Station on the Koumi Line, Nagano Prefecture, apartment buildings quickly become single-standing homes. In turn, those transform into freshly planted rice paddies, then mountains. I place a can of cold, black coffee on the windowsill next to my hiking pack and poles. At home, nothing tastes better than a hot cup of freshly ground coffee made with decent beans. But before a trip, like a Pavlovian dog, the stale, cold coffee makes me excited for the upcoming adventure. For some reason, the food on a long trip tastes better, too. A granola bar and some unsalted nuts are all you need to feast like a king. Departing Sakudaira Station (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) I ride this train for the sole reason that I have never done so before. The mountain climber in me needs no excuse other than the mountain (or train line) existing. I'm also a sucker for roads I have never driven. Finally, having the time to take a slow train is also no small luxury after a long spring season filled with work trips. Still, I cannot appreciate leisure without the busyness. I am thankful for each. During the pandemic, a chain of unbroken holidays was a burden, not a privilege, for a restless soul like me. Today, my plans extend no further than riding the train, alighting where I fancy, walking, and seeing what I encounter. The first surprise occurs when, lost in thought, I finally notice, "Gosh, this is a long stop." The conductor gestures, then gruffly says, "We have reached the Shuten, the final stop." Matsubarako, the station I intend to visit, is two stops and 4 kilometers away. "It's going to be a while until the next train," he says casually. By this, he means a train will arrive in two and a half hours. (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) That is how I find myself walking to Matsubarako Station along a beautiful countryside road lined with rice paddies, rivers, and carefully manicured gardens, with an equal number of abandoned homes. When I finally arrive, Lake Matsubarako, set against the snow-capped Yasugatake range, resembles a postcard. But I rather prefer the walk. It's often the unexpected stops and so-called mishaps that prove the most memorable. The train ride and long walk provide ample time to ruminate. This was my true aim: uninterrupted time to think. I look around and consider rural depopulation, where villages across Japan like this one are disappearing. There is loneliness, but also beauty in the desolation. The abandoned homes contain memories. It saddens me to see communities vanishing. But developed lands returning to the wild doesn't seem like the worst outcome either. The far more common human tendency of developing wild places into concrete jungles seems the bigger travesty. Although Japan faces economic challenges due to its demographic situation, there may be benefits in ways we cannot yet calculate or see. (©Daniel Moore) With population decline comes the loss of small train lines, too. For this, I feel unqualified lament. I still remember my fourth-grade teacher in Japanese elementary school, who bemoaned the loss of a train line due to the construction of the bullet train in preparation for the 1998 Winter Olympics. "We used to relax and enjoy the obento box to Tokyo. Now, by the time you realize it, you are already there." As a teacher, he must have enjoyed the enforced break away from students. As an adult, I finally understand the luxury of not being rushed. Japan still boasts hundreds of local train lines across its 47 prefectures. I can only discuss Nagano Prefecture with any authority. Wherever you find yourself, there is bound to be a lonely train line with plenty to explore, though. The Chikuma River in Nagano Prefecture. (©Daniel Moore) The Iiyama Line starts at Nagano Station, going North into Niigata Prefecture. The countryside in both prefectures is mountainous, sparsely populated, and receives copious snowfall. At Togari Nozawa Station, almost everyone alights. The already minuscule three-car train detaches, and a single car continues its solitary journey North. Don't worry, hardly anyone rides the train, so there are plenty of seats. This is where the real viewing action begins. The Iiyama Line (©Daniel Moore) Following the winding Chikuma River, one understands how aptly the "river of a thousand turns" is named. It winds its way through steep valleys and mountains, twisting, turning, and ever-expanding on its path to the Sea of Japan. For a small country, the volume of water available in Japan is mind-boggling. For bonus points, read Yasunari Kawabata's Snow Country (Penguin Books, English translation) while taking the trip, as the novel takes place in nearby Yuzawa. Some things have changed since the days of the novel, but I suspect not as much as one would think. (©Daniel Moore) While more agricultural and suburban, the Nagano Dentetsu Line offers equally stunning views of Nagano's mountains. The line might sound familiar to those who have visited the world-famous Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park. Because it is a private line, it holds the dubious distinction of being the most expensive in Japan, considering the distance it covers. However, on a clear day, the Hokushin Gogaku (Five Peaks) range is capped with snow and majestic, reminiscent of the Swiss Alps. I have climbed and snowboarded all of them, and I highly recommend an extended stay in the area, regardless of the season. In the summer and autumn, the ride is a veritable safari of fruit and vegetable farms. Everyone is a farmer in the countryside, and peeking into people's gardens feels like a window to the soul of the Japanese countryside. I admire this region so much I even named my Airbnbs after the peaks. Chuo Line Stations list (©Daniel Moore) The Shinano Express Line runs three hours between Nagano and Nagoya. While far from a bullet train, the express train still rushes past the Kiso Valley with disheartening speed. The narrow valley, rushing river, charming villages, and changing scenery rushing past make you wish the train would go slower. (©Daniel Moore) To really stop and smell the roses, take a local train on the Chuo Line between Matsumoto and Nakatsugawa Stations. The line shares a name with the Chuo Line in Tokyo running from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku and beyond. Otherwise, the lines share nothing else in common. (©Daniel Moore) In the Kiso Valley, the trains are more frequent, allowing visitors to get off and explore before hopping back on. Well-marked trails and the popularity of the Nakasendo trail make finding your way in the Kiso Valley a cinch. (©Daniel Moore) When planning a Japan itinerary, it is tempting to plan every minute, not wanting to waste any precious sightseeing time. It's scary, but I recommend leaving a blank page in the calendar. You might meet someone who recommends a spot not in the guidebooks, or you may need a day to relax. And of course, you may take a slow train to the end of the line. At the end, I often wish I could continue further. In those moments, I think about John Mayer's words and the need to slow down. I want my life to be a local train stopping along the way, not an express whizzing by the important moments. A single-car train is a physical reminder to stop, relax, and breathe. The great thing is, you never know what you will encounter along the way. (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) (©Daniel Moore) Author: Daniel Moore Learn more about the wild side of Japan through Daniel's essays . Leave questions or comments in the section below, or reach Daniel through Active Travel Japan .
Japan Forward
13 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Japan Forward
Art in Your Hand: Japanese Umbrellas Brighten Gray Skies
Come June in Japan, an umbrella becomes your constant companion. One tip to make sure you don't forget it anywhere is to invest in one you truly love. In Gifu City, traditional Japanese umbrellas, known as wagasa , are handcrafted like works of art. Each one takes up to two months to complete entirely by hand. When closed, they're slim and refined. When opened, colorful washi paper stretches out along elegant bamboo spokes in a striking radial pattern. Each umbrella crafted by 37-year-old artisan Mikiko Kawai is unique, featuring vibrant colors and intricate designs. In Japan's gray rainy season, they almost seem to chase the clouds away. A wagasa 's frame and handle are made from all-natural materials like bamboo and wood, while the canopy is crafted from washi paper. They come in various styles: from the detailed janome-gasa (snake-eye umbrellas) made famous in children's songs, to the sturdier bangasa , and parasols designed for sun protection. Kawai's "Sakura Wagasa" drew international attention when she created it for a visiting Hollywood actress. Inspired by the cherry blossoms in the film and the actress's costume, the parasol was made with delicate, handmade sakura-pink washi, using paper mulberry grown in Gifu Prefecture's Mino City. It quickly became a hit on social media. Floral-themed wagasa have been made since Japan's Showa era (1926–1989), and Kawai finds constant inspiration in their retro charm. "Showa-era wagasa are surprisingly modern and stylish," she says. "I often draw on traditional color palettes, like the layered hues of Heian-period [794–1185] garments, to create something fresh yet timeless." Mikiko Kawai glues washi paper onto a bamboo frame at her workshop Kasabiyori in Gifu City. One of her most popular designs is Tsukiyakko , a model passed down from the early Showa era and now revived at her workshop, Kasabiyori. Once produced across Japan, wagasa became particularly prominent in Gifu City. The upper flow of the Nagara River brought essential materials such as high-quality Mino washi, bamboo, and oil. During the Edo period, even samurai were encouraged to take up umbrella-making as a sideline. At its peak in the late 1940s, the Gifu region produced more than 12 million wagasa annually, according to the Gifu Wagasa Association. Today, although mass-produced Western umbrellas dominate the market, Gifu remains Japan's largest wagasa production area. These traditional umbrellas are still used in everyday life, on stage, and increasingly as decorative pieces or event props. In an industry where production is typically divided among specialists, Kawai is unusual in that she completes every step herself. From assembling the bamboo ribs and gluing the washi paper, to oiling, sun-drying, and stitching the interior, she does everything by hand and uses no machines. Even parasols, which do not require oiling, take around two months to finish. For a janome-gasa , the process can stretch to two and a half months. Her work is also at the mercy of the weather. "Sun-drying takes about four days in summer and a week in winter," she explains. "I'm always watching the forecast, trying to find stretches without rain." Although wagasa look beautiful in the rain, rain is the one thing she must avoid during production. Her reliance on sunlight and traditional, manual techniques contrasts sharply with today's efficiency-driven world. Still, she continues, step by step — assembling, pasting, drying — relying solely on her own hands. As the mother of a one-year-old son, her working hours are limited. "I get maybe three to four hours during the day, and another two or three at night. That's all I can manage right now," Kawai says. Her creations are in high demand, and she's doing all she can to keep up. Kawai hopes these stylish umbrellas, rich in Showa-era charm, will find a place in modern Reiwa-era life (2019–). Her goal is to craft umbrellas that are just as beautiful closed as they are when open. "Umbrellas spend most of their time closed, so I want mine to look elegant even when they're not in use. I aim to make something that anyone can carry — regardless of age, gender, or whether they wear modern or traditional clothing," Kawai says. "I take my time with each one, hoping to gradually reach the level of beauty and craftsmanship achieved by the artisans who came before me." ( Read the article in Japanese . ) Author: Maki Tanaka, The Sankei Shimbun
Japan Forward
14 hours ago
- Business
- Japan Forward
Ishiba Must Not Allow Prolonged Japan-US Trade Negotiations
このページを 日本語 で読む As Prime Minister Shigeru Ishiba flails and Japanese diplomacy deteriorates, we cannot help but feel disheartened. Ishiba managed to meet with United States President Donald Trump for about 30 minutes in Kananaskis, western Canada, host site of the 2025 Group of Seven Summit. However, their failure to reach an agreement on tariffs on the sidelines of the G7 was disappointing. At the same time, it was hardly unexpected. There is one issue that should not be overlooked but went unmentioned. Didn't the two leaders discuss the Middle East crisis and the fierce ongoing fighting between Israel and Iran? Japan relies on the Middle East for over 90% of its crude oil. Also, many tankers bound for Japan sail through the Persian Gulf. Therefore, the conflict threatens to disrupt oil shipment routes. For Japan, responding to the situation in the Middle East should be a major issue on a par with tariff negotiations. The summit discussions clearly fell short. After all, why would you meet with the president of your ally and not discuss the Middle East? G7 working session on the global economy. (©Canada G7 website) For the Prime Minister not to disclose what was actually discussed would also be strange. Japan could be viewed as sidelined in the Middle East situation. Either way, hasn't the Prime Minister demonstrated a lack of resolve in shouldering responsibility for the nation's destiny? Ishiba did comment on the failure to reach an agreement in the tariff negotiations, however. "We are exploring the possibility of reaching an agreement in line with the national interest," said the Prime Minister. Ishiba is right not to be so eager to achieve results that he makes easy concessions on issues vital to Japan. Poor outcomes on issues such as US tariffs on Japanese automobiles could undermine the national interest. It was already apparent that only the two leaders would be able to break the deadlock in negotiations. Minister of State for Economic Revitalization Ryosei Akazawa has already participated in a total of six Cabinet-level meetings with his US counterparts. However, they failed to reach an agreement. So, why is there no target date for when an agreement will be reached, even after the Ishiba-Trump meeting? There is also concern that the Trump administration's emphasis on negotiations with China may dampen momentum for an agreement with Japan. Initially, the administration said Japan-US negotiations were its top priority. We should not let this situation prolong the Japan-US trade negotiations. Moreover, we cannot allow the negative impact of Trump's tariffs on the Japanese economy to spread. The US administration's high tariff policy approach is fluid. Trump has declared that there may be further increases in tariffs on motor vehicles. However, US Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent has indicated the American side may extend the current reciprocal tariffs suspension. What we need from the Ishiba administration is a strategic and proactive approach to pursuing national interests. It cannot allow Japan to be constantly at the mercy of the US side. Likewise, there is no need to be passive or to think that the outcome of any agreement depends on Trump. Author: Editorial Board, The Sankei Shimbun このページを 日本語 で読む
Japan Forward
a day ago
- Sport
- Japan Forward
Equinox Honored as a Racing Legend with Hall of Fame Induction
Equinox won 80% of his career races, including his final six starts. "He has left an indelible mark on Japanese racing history," trainer Tetsuya Kimura said. Equinox, with Christophe Lemaire handling the reins, wins his fifth of six consecutive races to conclude his career in the Tenno Sho (Autumn) on October 29, 2023, at Tokyo Racecourse. (©SANKEI) Equinox has been selected for induction into the Japan Racing Association Hall of Fame. This news, competing with a smorgasbord of sporting activities in mid-June in Japan and abroad, may be one of those "buried headlines" on a website. Or it may simply be overlooked by the general public. But it's a big deal, a really big deal. Equinox is only the 38th horse to be voted into the JRA Hall of Fame since it was established in 1985. An announcement was made on Monday, June 16. Hundreds of thoroughbreds compete each year in races in Japan, and only about one per year has been picked as a Hall of Famer. The Kitasan Black-sired thoroughbred won eight of his 10 career races (all on grass), including his final six starts, all of which were Grade 1 events. He also had a pair of runner-up finishes. Equinox's outstanding performances captured the attention of the global racing community. And the sport's movers and shakers recognized that he was a transcendent figure, a generational talent. Exhibit A: Equinox was named the World's Best Racehorse for 2023. Further documentation of Equinox's greatness: He was the JRA's Horse of the Year in 2022 and '23. Equinox, piloted by Christophe Lemaire, pulls away for a four-length victory in the Japan Cup on November 26, 2023, at Tokyo Racecourse. (ⒸSANKEI) Equinox completed his storybook career with a riveting four-length victory over Liberty Island in the 43rd Japan Cup at Tokyo Racecourse on November 26, 2023. The brown stallion lived up to lofty expectations throughout his career. Indeed, he was bred for greatness. His racing lineage includes great grandsire Sunday Silence, winner of the Kentucky Derby and Preakness Stakes in 1989. And Equinox's father, Kitasan Black, a winner of 12 races in 20 starts, was inducted into the JRA Hall of Fame in 2020. During his impressive run of six consecutive victories in 2022-23, Equinox thrived in his lone overseas excursion, winning the 2,410-meter Dubai Sheema Classic in the United Arab Emirates by 3½ lengths. "Equinox produced a dominant performance of rare quality to stamp his authority on global middle-distance turf racing," read a portion of the May 2023 race recap on the Dubai Racing Club website. "He looks quite simply untouchable." After that race, trainer Tetsuya Kimura stated that Equinox had proven he could excel against elite-level competition. "It was a tough field with some very strong horses, but he's a champion and he was just the best," Kimura told reporters in Dubai. "He got the job done and made it all look so simple. I am very happy with this performance." Equinox, steered by Christophe Lemaire, secures victory in the Tenno Sho (Autumn) on October 29, 2023, at Tokyo Racecourse. (ⒸSANKEI) French jockey Christophe Lemaire rode the Kitasan Black progeny in each of his 10 races. Reacting to the news of Equinox being elected into the JRA Hall of Fame ― he received votes on 90.5% of the ballots cast by horse racing journalists ― Lemaire tweeted, "So proud of him." Kimura was also delighted that Equinox earned enshrinement. "I believe the fact that he was selected at this moment, so soon after winning his final race, the G1 Japan Cup, is proof that he has left an indelible mark on Japanese racing history," Kimura said, according to Daily Sports . The superstar racehorse's success will serve as inspiration for the trainer moving forward, he said. Consider it a lasting tribute to Equinox's amazing career. "I will devote myself to applying the experience gained from training Equinox to his offspring and other young horses, to bring even more joy to racing fans," Kimura said. The 2025 Hall of Famer now resides at Shadai Stallion Station in Abira, Hokkaido Prefecture. Masashi Yonemoto, CEO of Silk Racing Co Ltd, has high expectations for Equinox's offspring as racehorses. "Though his racing career lasted just over two years, Equinox's overwhelming performances proved that Japanese racing has reached a level of global excellence," Yonemoto said, according to Daily Sports . "We expect to see the debut of his offspring in 2027." Yonemoto added, "The progeny are already arriving, and the global phenom, who retired at the peak of his powers, is set to pass on his legacy to the next generation." Author: Ed Odeven Find Ed on JAPAN Forward' s dedicated website, SportsLook . Follow his [Japan Sports Notebook] on Sundays, [Odds and Evens] during the week, and X (formerly Twitter) ＠ed_odeven .
Japan Forward
a day ago
- Entertainment
- Japan Forward
British Food and Music Shine at Tokyo Embassy
The British Embassy in Tokyo came alive on June 12 with the sounds, scents, and flavors of the United Kingdom at British Beats and Bites – A Celebration of UK Food, Drink and Culture. The event brought together diplomats, entrepreneurs, creatives, and media for an immersive cultural experience centered on the UK's evolving identity as a food and music powerhouse. Hosted in the elegant setting of the British Ambassador's residence, the evening showcased everything from classic British cuisine to artisanal drinks. It culminated in a Britpop-infused DJ set by none other than Alex James, the former bassist of Blur and now an ambassador for British food and drink. Opening the evening was Emil Levendoglu, Minister and Deputy Head of Mission, who welcomed guests with warmth and humor. "It's a great pleasure to be welcoming you to a celebration of British food, drink, creativity — and, it turns out, cocktails," he said. Levendoglu described the modern British food scene as "bold, diverse, and globally inspired," noting how it has been shaped by the many cultures that make up contemporary Britain. "From Michelin-starred restaurants to buzzing food markets, our chefs and producers are constantly blending tradition with new ideas," he said, drawing a parallel with Japan's own culinary culture. Beyond food, Levendoglu emphasized the strong cultural ties between the UK and Japan. "This evening is also about the deep and enduring friendship between the UK and Japan, and the cultural ties that bind us together. Not just in food, but also in music, art, and creativity." Those cultural ties came to to life with the presence of Alex James, a man who embodies the crossover between British music and British food. Introduced by Levendoglu as "a very special guest" and "a passionate advocate for British food and drink," James brought not only nostalgia for his days in Blur but a sense of fun and reinvention. Blur bassist Alex James (©JAPAN Forward) Before his DJ set, James offered a heartfelt toast. "I really am delighted to be in Japan again with my family," he said. "And this time I'm not here as a musician — I'm here as a champion of UK food and drink." He went on to share how meaningful it was to see Japanese guests trying his own product, Brittle Pop, for the first time. "Hopefully, we've managed to get people thinking differently and created some new fans of UK food and drink." The crowd greeted the toast, "To the UK, and to Japan, and to food, and to drink, and to music," with a resounding "Kanpai!" Guests were treated to passed canapés like cold-smoked Scottish salmon on buttered toast, vol-au-vents filled with mushrooms, and bite-sized omelettes made with organic vegetables. Heartier fare included a shepherd's pie station, chicken curry, and roast beef served with ratatouille and gravy. Each dish offered a distinct window into the culinary identity of the UK. The sushi station, featuring kappamaki (thin sushi roll filled with cucumber) and tuna rolls, was a nod to the host country while underscoring the cross-cultural spirit of the evening. For cheese lovers, a curated selection featuring Wales' creamy Perl Las and England's Shropshire Blue, vintage cheddar, and Rutland Red added a tangy punch to the tasting experience. British cuisine at British Beats and Bites (©JAPAN Forward) Drinks reflected the diversity of the UK's four nations, with a showcase of gins and whiskies from England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Signature cocktails made with spirits from all four nations added flair to the evening, while Belvoir soft drinks provided a refreshing non-alcoholic option. Desserts, including whisky-infused chocolate squares, blueberry custard tarts, and raspberry macarons, were passed around as the party reached its peak. To end on a sweet note, guests were gifted Ben's Cookies, while the afternoon tea photo booth, set with Wedgwood ceramics, offered a playful tribute to a timeless British tradition. Adding another layer of momentum to the evening, Rupert Daniels, Director of Services for the UK's Department of Business and Trade, likened the event to a band's tour. Tokyo, he said, was just the first stop before the team traveled to Osaka for a showcase at the UK Pavilion at Expo 2025. "You're really lucky — you're seeing the first night of the band on tour," he said. Daniels, who first came to Japan during the 2002 World Cup, spoke fondly of the shared passions that unite both countries. "The two things that brought everyone together, particularly from the UK and our wonderful Japanese hosts, were music, food, and drink, which is exactly what we're celebrating tonight." He also urged guests to explore and interact with the variety of UK producers represented at the event. "There are 15 or 16 different producers here tonight — from sparkling wine to whisky to wonderful confectionery. Go talk to someone you've never met before. Try something new. Let's keep this cultural interchange going strong." Bar at British Beats and Bites (©JAPAN Forward) While the event had all the hallmarks of successful public diplomacy, soft power through food, cultural nostalgia, and personal storytelling, it was ultimately about connection. It celebrated the human dimension of trade, creativity, and shared tastes. From signature dishes to sampling stations, from Britpop classics echoing across embassy halls to toasts of sparkling Brittle Pop, British Beats and Bites was more than a showcase — it was a shared table. As the evening continued under Tokyo's early summer skies, with glasses clinking and voices mingling, one thing was clear. The bonds between the UK and Japan are as much about what's on the plates, or in the speakers, as they are about politics or policy. Author: Daniel Manning
